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2003

TODAY's CASES:

Andouillettes

  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: David 
  To: phaedrus
  Sent: Tuesday, April 29, 2003 12:09 AM
  Subject: andouillettes

  Before coming to Mexico City I lived in Lyons, France, where one of 
  the specialties and a favorite of mine are andouillettes -- pig's 
  tripe sausages. Can you help with a recipe?

Hello David,

Below is what I was able to find.

Phaed

  From "The Art Of Charcuterie, Jane Grigson"

  The basic mixture is the same for both andouilles and andouillettes, 
  apart from local variations. It's the size that distinguishes them as 
  far as the home cook is concerned.

  Basic Method

  Large intestine and belly of the pig (or part)
  Fat bacon (1/3 of above weight)

  - Bouillon -
  Half-and-half milk and water to cover
  2 or 3 onions stuck with 4 cloves each
  3 medium carrots Salt, pepper
  A bouquet garni
  Spices

  (If the intestines, etc., have not been cleaned, soak in cold water for 
  24 hours in a cool place. Overnight only in warm, humid weather. Then 
  clean and scrape them. Simmer for an hour in water.)

  Set aside enough intestine for the casings-thinner pieces for andouillettes,
  fatter for andouilles-and out them into suitable lengths. Sprinkle with 
  salt and store in the refrigerator or the coolest part of the larder.

  Slice up, with scissors or a sharp knife, the rest of the intestine and 
  the belly, into strips 1/3 to 1/2 inch wide and a little shorter than your 
  lengths of casing. Put them in a bowl and sprinkle with plenty of salt, 
  freshly ground black pepper, and a mixture of spices such as quatre-spices.
  Remember that andouillettes and andouilles need a strong spice contrast to 
  the slightly rubbery smoothness of the tripe filling. Let the strips macerate 
  in the seasonings for 24 hours, in a cool, dry place.

  Next day, out the fat bacon into pieces about the width and length of the 
  tripe pieces. If you refrigerate the fat first, this job becomes quite easy.
  Divide the tripe and bacon strips into bundles and tie each one, at one end, 
  with a length of "heavy- duty" white thread.

  Wash the salt off the casings, and draw the bundles in, by means of the
  "heavy-duty" thread (this is where the neat-figured are at a premium). 
  Cut away the thread and tie the andouilles or andouillettes at each end.

  (If this process appalls you, you can, more simply, chop the tripe and bacon 
  fat rather than slice it into regular lengths. If you have a sausage-making
  attachment to an electric mixer, you can treat the mixture like sausage meat 
  and fill the skins that way-but use the very large-holed plate as the final 
  result should not be too smooth or solid in texture.)
  If the knobbiness of your andouilles and andouillettes seems excessively
  exaggerated, roll them backward and forward with the palm of your hand on 
  a smooth surface (Formica or marble slab).

  Cooking Andouillettes

  Prick them with a darning needle and arrange evenly in a large saucepan. 
  Cover with milk and water in equal quantities, add the other bouillon 
  ingredients, and bring to the boil. Simmer gently for 3 hours. Leave them 
  to cool down in the liquid until tepid, then lay them side by side closely 
  in a shallow dish and put a lightly weighted board on top. This gives a 
  handsome squared-off appearance, which is not strictly necessary but 
  gratifying. In France they are often glazed with a mixture of lard and 
  veal fat in equal quantities, or-when the weather gets warmer-with one 
  fifth mutton fat and four fifths veal fat.

  Now they can be fried, or else slashed across in three or four places 
  and grilled. Serve them on their own, as a starting course, with French 
  mustard; or with mashed potato as a main luncheon dish. Well-spiced 
  andouillettes are a great treat and worth the trouble of making.
  -----
  Andouillettes de Troyes (Aube District of Champagne)

  2 lbs. calfs udder-young heifer, not old cow (tetine)
  2 lbs. calfs mudgeon, mesentery (fraise)
  1 heaped tablespoon
  chopped parsley
  6 tablespoons (3/4 stick) butter
  1/2 cup white wine
  1/2 lb. mushrooms, sliced
  4 egg yolks
  About 1/2 cup chopped scallions or shallots
  Salt, freshly ground black pepper, ground nutmeg

  Soak both udder and mudgeon well in plenty of cold water for 2 hours. 
  Blanch them in boiling, salted water for an hour. Cut them into small 
  strips. Saute mushrooms, scallions or shallots, and parsley in the butter 
  until the onions are golden but not browned. Add pepper, nutmeg, and wine. 
  Bubble for a moment, salt well, and put into a big bowl. Add the meat and 
  bind with the egg yolks. Fill the skins, simmer in half white wine and 
  half water bouillon for 45 minutes-in other words, follow the Basic Method, 
  apart from the cooking time.

Halloumi Cheese

   ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Poppy 
  To: phaedrus
  Sent: Tuesday, April 29, 2003 9:14 AM
  Subject: Haloumi cheese recipe

  If you can please help me find a recipe for Cyprian haloumi cheese. 
  I would love to make it myself 
  thanks

Hello Poppy,

See below. To be authentic, use ewe's milk.

Phaed

  Greek Cypriot Halloumi Cheese

  Ingredients

  · 8 pints fresh Milk, either goats or ewe or cow 
  · 1 Teaspoon Rennet or special cheese rennet (sorry, I am not sure 
    of correct name) 
  · Little salt if desired 
  · Pan 
  · 2-3 Muslin bags or similar 

  Preparation

  To fresh milk add rennet and leave till set (about 30 mins.)

  Break up and place resulting mass into muslin in about two lots 
  (this depends on the amount of milk used.

  Drain any whey from curds back into pan, leave to stand in muslin 
  for about half an hour after which they will be firmer and in oval 
  shape.

  Meanwhile bring whey to the boil (any curds which form on the top may 
  be gathered and used fresh (add sugar and cinnamon or placed in muslin 
  and hung to dry to form a hard cheese suitable for grating onto pasta etc.

  Once milk has come to the boil, remove soft curds from muslin and place 
  into boiling pan. Simmer gently until the cheese floats to the top, but
  certainly for approximately 20 mins. Remove cheese, if liked, sprinkle 
  with salt and fold in half and place a weight on top. Leave in fridge 
  for at leave 2 hours before use. It may be stored in a jar with a small 
  amount of the whey (keep cool).

  The remaining whey may be used to boil spaghetti in, when cooked, cooked 
  chicken may be added to form a soup, serve with bread (this is a typical 
  Cypriot lunch, nothing is wasted)

  The soft curds which form on the top to which sugar and cinnamon are added 
  can be made in to 'cakes' filo type pastry is filled with the mixture and 
  then deep fried for a few moments, delicious!

  Yield
  2-3 rounds of cheese.
  

Thomas Mann's Maraschino Pudding

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Ray" 
To: phaedrus
Sent: Tuesday, April 29, 2003 6:24 PM
Subject: Maraschino Pudding

> A friend, interested in German literature, found this menu mentioned 
> in Thomas Mann's "Buddenbrooks":
>
> One of the meals served by the Buddenbrooks' was "...mussel ragout,
> julienne soup, baked sole, roast veal with mashed potatoes and brussels
> sprouts, maraschino pudding, and pumpernickel with Roquefort cheese..." 
> [pp 98-99]
>
> He says that this seems to him the right recipe, or at least most like
> what he thinks it should be:
>
> Black Forest Pudding Cake
>
> 1 1/4 cups all-purpose flour
> 3/4 cup sugar
> 1/4 cup unsweetened cocoa
> 1 tablespoon baking powder
> 1/2 teaspoon salt
> 2/3 cup milk
> 1/4 cup butter, melted
> 1 teaspoon vanilla
> 1/2 cup maraschino cherries, drained, quartered
> 3/4 cup hot water
> 1/2 cup chocolate syrup
> 1/4 cup maraschino cherry juice
> Whole maraschino cherries, if desired for garnish
>
> Heat oven to 350 degrees. Combine flour, sugar, cocoa, baking powder 
> and salt in medium bowl. Add milk,
> butter and vanilla; mix well. Stir in 1/2 cup cherries.
>
> Spread batter into greased 8-inch square (2-quart) baking dish. 
> Combine hot water, chocolate syrup and
> maraschino cherry juice in 2-cup glass measure. Pour evenly over batter.
>
> Bake for 35-40 minutes or until center is set and edges begin to pull 
> away from sides of pan. Let stand 15 minutes. Serve warm. Garnish with 
> whole maraschino cherries, if desired.
>
> I don't  think this is right (Black Forest Cake?!), and suspect that 
> it meant Nesselrode Pudding, as per your recipe at:
>
> http://www.hungrybrowser.com/phaedrus/m061702.htm
>
> Thoughts?
>
> Ray 

Hello Ray,

Thank you for a question that's a little deeper than another jello salad recipe request!

Here's my thinking:

1) I could not locate a recipe anywhere for "maraschino pudding" or "maraschino cherry pudding".
2) The original name for "Black Forest Cake" was "Schwarzwälder Kirschtorte". The "Kirsch" is where the cherries come into the recipe. This recipe originally used sour German cherries and was flavored with "kirsch", which is a German cherry liqueur.
3) Maraschino Cherries are called that because the cherries were originally flavored with maraschino cherry liqueur. Maraschino cherry liqueur is called that because it's made with Marasca cherries grown at Marasca, Italy.
4) So, I believe that your friend must be incorrect. Thomas Mann would certainly have known the difference between Kirsch cherry liqueur and Maraschino cherry liqueur, since one is German and one is Italian. If he had meant Black Forest Torte, I think he would have called it a Kirschtorte, not Maraschino pudding.
5) However, I find no evidence that the dessert he meant was Nesselrode pudding, either. IT MAY have been, because Nesselrode pudding was originally flavored with Maraschino liqueur. However, it may not have been Nesselrode pudding at all, but some other pudding that was flavored with Maraschino liqueur or Maraschino cherries. If it had been Nesselrode pudding, why would he not have called it that? That's the only name it has ever been known by, and the chestnut puree is actually the dominant flavor in the dish.
6) Thomas Mann was actually living in Italy when he began "Buddenbrooks". Perhaps Maraschino pudding is an Italian dish, since that's where the Marasca cherries are grown.
7) "Buddenbrooks" takes strong jabs at many of the prominent families of Mann's hometown of Lubeck, Germany. Perhaps their choice of an imported Italian Maraschino cherry liqueur over the domestic German Kirsch cherry liqueur to flavor a pudding was his way of demonstrating the Buddenbrooks' extravagance. The other dishes on that menu would tend to support that idea.

Hope this helps.

Phaed


Baked Stuffed Shrimp

   ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Karl 
  To: phaedrus 
  Sent: Tuesday, April 29, 2003 3:53 PM
  Subject: Baked Stuffed Shrimp

  In my travels as a long-haul truck driver I had the opportunity to try 
  this wonderful dish at a restaurant called the Chowder Pot IV in Hartford,
  Connecticut.  I would love to know how to make it.

Hello Karl,

I had no luck finding a recipe from the Chowder Pot, but below are a couple of baked stuffed shrimp recipes.

Phaed

  Baked Stuffed Shrimp
   From The Pondview Restaurant in Kingston, NH    
            
  1/2-cup Fine Bread Crumbs
  1/2-cup Finely Crushed Ritz Crackers
  1/4-cup Melted Butter
  8-tablespoons Nice Dry Sherry
  1/4-cup Snow Crabmeat
  1/4-cup Baby Maine Shrimp
  1-tablespoon Old Bay Seafood Seasoning
  1-tablespoon Chopped Chives   
           
  In a casserole dish, put in about 4 tablespoons of dry white wine (Chablis). 
  Take a nice fresh lemon and squeeze the juice into the dish. Add 8 tablespoons 
  of melted drawn butter.

  Using U-8 shrimps, cut down the center, remove the vein, butterfly, and place 
  them in the casserole dish.

  Lightly pack breading into a ball. Place the breading into the shrimps. 

  Preheat oven to 400°. Bake for 15 minutes. Do not overcook.

  Note: the breading mix may be used for baked stuffed lobster.
  -------------------------------------
  Bistro Baked Stuffed Shrimp

  2  large shrimp, butterflied 
              
  Stuffing:

  1/4 minced onion 
  1 rib celery 
  1/2 green pepper 
  1/2 red pepper 
  1 tbsp capers 
  dash cayenne 
  1 clove garlic 
  1 tbsp parsley 
  1 oz. crab meat 
  3 oz. Ritz crackers 
  1 tbsp. butter 
  salt & pepper, to taste

  Preheat oven to 425 degrees. Drain onion, celery, and peppers well. 
  Saute onions in butter until tender. Add garlic, celery, green and 
  red peppers, cook until dry and lightly browned. Cool vegetable mixture. 
  Add capers, crab, cracker crumbs, cayenne, salt and pepper. Cool. 
  Stuff mixture into butterflied shrimp. Place on pan with 1/2 cup of 
  white wine. Bake 5-8 minutes. Serve stuffed shrimp with drawn butter.

Lemon Tea Cakes

----- Original Message ----- 
From: Lavina
To: phaedrus
Sent: Tuesday, April 29, 2003 7:51 PM
Subject: Lemon tea cake

> When I was young my neighbor made homemade tea cakes. I would love to 
> find a recipe for them. It had lemon, flour and I don't know what else 
> but they were good.
> Can you help ? It was not the Spritz Recipe everyone keeps giving me.
> Lavina 

Hello Lavina,

See below.

Phaed

Old  Fashioned  Tea  Cakes

 Ingredients :
 2 eggs
 1 c. shortening
 1 1/2 c. sugar
 2 tsp. baking powder
 Flour for stiff dough (about 3 1/2 c. sifted)
 1/2 tsp. lemon flavoring
 1/2 tsp. vanilla extract flavoring
 1/4 tsp. salt

 Preparation :
    Cream shortening and sugar.  Add eggs and beat well.  Sift dry
 ingredients and add to mixture.  Roll to about 3/16 inch, and cook
 at 400 degrees on greased cookie sheet for about 10 minutes.  Don't
 over brown.

 ----------------------------------
  Old - Fashioned  Tea  Cakes

 Ingredients :
 1 c. butter or margarine
 2 c. sugar
 5 eggs
 5 1/2 c. flour
 3 tsp. baking powder
 1/4 c. milk
 1 tsp. vanilla or lemon extract

 Preparation :
    Cream butter and sugar together.  Add eggs, one at a time.  Sift
 together the flour and baking powder.  Add the flour and milk
 alternately until completely mixed.  Add vanilla or lemon extract.
 ----------------------------------
 Old  Fashioned  Tea  Cakes

 Ingredients :
 1/2 lb. butter
 2 c. sugar
 4 well beaten eggs
 1 tsp. vanilla or lemon flavoring
 4 c. all-purpose flour
 1 tsp. baking soda
 2 tsp. cream of tartar

 Preparation :
    Cream butter and sugar.  Add beaten eggs and flavoring.  Sift
 together flour, baking soda and cream of tartar and add to mixture.
 Knead and roll thin on well floured surface.  Cut into desired
 shapes.  Bake on lightly greased baking sheet at 350 degrees for 15
 to 20 minutes or until light brown.  Yield about 4 dozen.
 ----------------------------------
 Grandma's  Old  Fashioned  Tea  Cakes

 Ingredients :
 1 3/4 c. sugar
 1 c. shortening
 3 c. flour
 1 tsp. vanilla or lemon flavoring
 2 eggs
 1/2 tsp. soda
 1/2 tsp. salt

 Preparation :
    Cream shortening and sugar.  Add eggs, one at a time, and add
 remaining ingredients.  Knead dough on floured board.  Chill.  Roll
 out and cut.  Bake 8 minutes at 325 degrees.
 ----------------------------------
 Old  Fashioned  Tea  Cakes

 Ingredients :
 1 c. butter
 2 c. sugar
 2 eggs
 4 c. all purpose flour
 4 tsp. baking powder
 1 tsp. salt
 1 tsp. vanilla extract
 1 tsp. lemon extract

 Preparation :
    Cream butter and sugar until light and fluffy.  Add eggs and beat
 well.  Sift flour and measure, then add baking powder and salt.
 Sift 3 times.  Add flour mixture a little at a time to sugar mixture
 and mix well.  Add flavorings; chill.  Roll dough very thin and cut
 in desired shapes.  Bake in a quick oven at 400 degrees for 6-10
 minutes or until light brown.

""


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