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Split Peas

----- Original Message -----
From: Victoria
To: phaedrus
Sent: Friday, January 01, 1904 8:15 PM
Subject: Split peas

> Hi Phaedrus,
> I have continued to enjoy your site immensely. I did finally 
> find a source for the ceramic pudding mold that I looked for 
> forever. A company in England sells them. The shipping cost 
> more than the mold, but as I am planning a trip to England 
> mid-October, I am hoping to track one down while I'm there.
> My question now is kind of an esoteric one. Culinarily speaking, 
> what is the difference between yellow and green split peas? I 
> prefer the yellow ones, but are green ones more authentic for 
> Split Pea Soup? Is it a regional distinction? I am working on 
> an article about autumn soups and would like to include some 
> info about which color (type?) of pea is used and why.
> Thank you for your time in advance,
> Victoria

Hello Victoria,

Well, they're all dried field peas. I didn't find anything that said one was more authentic than the other. The green ones have a stronger, earthier flavor, so they're more suited to soups with a lot of spices and to soups with sausage. Yellow split peas are milder and sweeter, and thus are better in milder soups without a lot of spices. Kids seem to prefer soups with the yellow ones. In searching through a number of recipes, I found a few that specifically called for green and a few that specifically called for yellow, but the vast majority of split pea soup recipes don't specify either one. I'd say the rule of thumb is to use green in spicy soups and yellow in milder soups and in vegetarian soups.


Beyti Kebabs

----- Original Message -----
From: Jean
To: phaedrus
Sent: Sunday, September 15, 2002 1:10 PM
Subject: Beyti Kebab Recipe

> I have been trying for almost a year to get the recipe for
> Beyti Kebabs, a dish I order every time I visit my Aunt Mary
> in Brooklyn (I live in Virginia so the visits are not very often).
> I have emailed the restaurant but didn't receive a reply.  I
> have asked for the recipe at the restaurant and got a list of
> some of the obvious ingredients, but no recipe.  My husband
> and I adore this dish and the last time we were at the
> restaurant ordered a number of portions to go -- froze them
> at my mother's house and then transported them home in our
> cooler -- that is how much we love this dish!
> Anyway, here is what I know of the dish.
> The restaurant is:
> Sahara Restaurant, 2337 Coney Island Ave, Brooklyn, NY 11223
> The name and obvious ingredients in the dish:
> Beyti Kebab - grilled ground lamb kebabs
> Ingredients:
> Ground lamb
> cayenne or other spicy red pepper
> garlic
> (I assume, but not certain, it contains
> cilantro, parsley, cumin, sumac(?) breadcrumbs
> There is a certain faint sour taste to it which I attribute to
> sumac being sprinkled on after the kebab is cooked, but
> this assumption is totally without any basis in fact.
> I have also scoured the web with no results, so any help
> you may be able to give me, I would consider a minor miracle.
> Thank you for listening.
> Jean

Hi Jean,

This dish captured my imagination, so I spent a lot of time on it. No, I could not find a copycat recipe for the Sahara Restaurant's Beyti Kebab, but I did find some other things. The Sahara does have a website, but of course, they don't give out their recipes.

I also found "beyti kebab" being offered by several other restaurants. The description is basically the same at all of them:
Ground or minced lamb seasoned with onions, fresh red peppers, parsley, garlic and Turkish crushed red pepper. Some of them mention that the dish is made with yogurt. Sometimes the dish may have breadcrumbs in it to help hold the ground meat together as it cooks.

Actually, "beyti kebab" is sort of a misnomer. The dish is actually a spicy "doner kebab". It came to be called "beyti kebab" after a restaurant owner, Beyti Güler, who popularized doner kebabs through his "Beyti's Kebabs" restaurants.

All that said, since I could not find a copycat recipe for beyti kebab, I am sending you a similar "sis kebab" recipe that contains much the same ingredients.


Sis Kebab with Yogurt ( Yogurtlu Sis Kebab )
Ingredients :
1 kg cubed lamb 200 g finely minced lamb 1/2 teaspoon salt 1/4 teaspoon black
pepper pinch of sumac 1/4 teaspoon chili flakes or powder 1 green chili pepper
1/2 sweet red pepper 1 small onion 2 cloves garlic 6-7 sprigs parsley 3 small
pide ( pitta ) 200 g yogurt 1 medium aubergine ( the long variety ) 1
teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon sumac 1 teaspoon thyme For the sauce : 4 large
tomatoes 2 chili peppers 1 clove garlic 1 small onion 3 tablespoons butter
(also for the pide ) 3/4 teaspoon salt The marinade: 4 midium onions 4 cloves
of garlic 1 cup of sunflower oil 1 teaspoon salt 1/2 teaspoon black pepper

Recipe :
Preparing the sauce: After peeling and dicing tomatoes, chop peppers finely.
Peel the garlic and onions and lightly cook in 2 tablespoons melted butter.
Add the pepper, stir over the heat for a few minutes then add the tomatoes
and cook over a moderate heat until soft. Stir in the salt. Preparing the
sish kebab: Marinate the cubed lamb overnight, using the marinade, and the
following day thread on skewers. Prepare sish kofte mith minced meat and
arrange on skewers. Preparing the kofte: Chop onions, garlic, peepers, and
pasley very finely. Place all the ingridients with minced meat into a bowl
and knead thoroughly until you have a smooth paste. Refregirate for 10
minutes. Wet your hands, take an egg size piece of the minced meat mixture
and squeze it arround a skewer. Grill the skewers of meat and kofte
preferably on charcoal. Cut the pide into small squares and lightly fry in
the remaining of melted butter. Sprinkle salt, sumac and thyme over, stir
again and arrange in the center of a large serving dish. Spoon a litle of
the tomato sauce on the pide (too much will make them soogy and spoil the
dish). Beat the plain yogurt and spread a quarter of it over the pide.
Remove the sish kofte from the skewer, cut in half and arrange alternately
with skewers of meat over the top. Peel alternate strips from aubergine,
slice and fry, and arrange over. Sprinkle melted butter, sumac and thyme
over the top to serve. Have a good appetite !

Kluski Noodles

 ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Mindy
  To: phaedrus
  Sent: Sunday, September 15, 2002 4:42 PM
  Subject: Kluski noodle

  I am looking for a recipe to make Kluski noodles because there 
  don't seem to be stores that sell them in Portland Oregon!


Hi Mindy,

I found a couple of recipes for them. See below. You can also buy them online.


  Kluski  Noodles

   Ingredients : 
   2 eggs, well beaten
   4 tbsp. water
   1 tsp. salt
   Dash of pepper

   Preparation : 
     Add water to eggs and beat; add salt and pepper.  Add flour until
   batter is very thick paste.    Have boiling in large pot.  Take
   small amount of batter and cut into little ribbons of batter.  Drop
   into boiling water.  They are done when they rise to top; drain,
   rinse; cool.  Fry in butter or use in soup.  Do not cover while
   cooking.  They grow.  
   Homemade  Polish  Noodles  (Kluski)

   Ingredients : 
   3 c. flour
   3 eggs
   2 to 3 tbsp. water
   1 tsp. salt

   Preparation : 
      Sift flour onto a board.  Make a well in center.  Place eggs,
   water, and salt in well.  Work ingredients into a dough and knead
   until smooth, about 1 minute. Divide into 2 parts.  Roll on floured
   board until very thin.  Let dry about an hour.

First Black NFL Quarterback?

  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Mary
  To: phaedrus 
  Sent: Sunday, September 15, 2002 1:46 PM
  Subject: quarterback

  i am trying to find out whom was the first black man to play 
  quarterback position in the n.f.l. i hope you can help me.....
  thanking you, mary

Hi Mary,

OK, here's the scoop:

Willie Thrower became the first black quarterback to play in an NFL football game when he played in one game for the Chicago Bears in 1953.

Marlin Briscoe became the first black quarterback to start a game in the NFL in 1968.

James "Shack" Harris was the first black quarterback to become a regular starter in the National Football League in the 1970's. He played with such teams as the Los Angeles Rams, and the San Diego Chargers


Brandy Alexander Cake Roll

----- Original Message -----
From: Bonnie
To: phaed
Sent: Monday, September 16, 2002 2:52 PM
Subject: Love your culinary detective site....aannndd here comes MY

>   this long-time search is for a recipe for or tips for "Brandy
> Alexander Cake" that was made in a bakery called," Court of the 
> Two Sisters" on Union Street in San Francisco .Two sisters from 
> Oregon made the most amazing cakes I have ever seen..why they 
> folded up shop is a drama  for another day....
>   The cake was a handsome dome cake with nuts and chocolate and
> perhaps one more ingredient in the center filling.  I have tracked 
> down the cake style to "zucotto" that it was dome shaped, with 
> some sort of sponge, glued together with probably raspberry jam. 
> The center and "frosting" are the problem.  There are many styles 
> of zucotto.. All receipes  I have discovered are light,sweet and 
> fluffy, using whipped cream in the center with various nuts. This 
> cake I want to make was conservative and dark.  The filling was
> nuts, chocolate and, I guess, Brandy Alexander flavored. The 
> "frosting" was a dark, smooth chocolate glaze.
> Any help is greatly appreciated.
> Sincerely,
> Bonnie

Hi Bonnie,

The closest recipe that I could find is the "Brandy Alexander Cake Roll" recipe below. Below it are a few zuccotto recipes. As you say, though, zuccotto is light and has whipped cream in the center. Sorry I couldn't do better for you. Maybe someone will see this on my site and will have the recipe.


Brandy Alexander Cake Roll

6 eggs, separated
3/4 teaspoon cream of tartar
2/3 cup sugar, divided
1 cup chocolate syrup, divided
2 teaspoons vanilla, divided
1/4 teaspoon salt
3/4 cup all-purpose flour
1/4 cup plus additional confectioners' sugar
1 package (8 ounces) Neufchatel cheese, softened
1 teaspoon brandy flavoring
1/2 cup chopped drained maraschino cherries

Lightly grease 151/2-by-101/2-inch jelly roll pan. Line bottom with waxed
paper and grease again. Set aside

In large mixing bowl, beat egg whites with cream of tartar at high speed
until foamy. Add 1/3 cup of the sugar, 2 tablespoons at a time, beating
constantly until sugar is dissolved and whites are glossy and stand in soft
peaks. (Rub just a bit of meringue between thumb and forefinger to feel if
sugar has dissolved.)

In small mixing bowl, beat egg yolks at high speed until thick and
lemon-colored. Gradually beat in remaining 1/3 cup sugar, 1/2 cup of the
chocolate syrup, 11/2 teaspoons of the vanilla and salt until blended.
Sprinkle flour over whites. Add beaten yolk mixture. Gently, but thoroughly,
fold yolk mixture and flour into whites. Pour into prepared pan and gently
spread evenly.

Bake in preheated 400 degree F. oven until top springs back when lightly
touched with finger, about 18 to 20 minutes. Dust clean tea towel with
confectioners' sugar. With spatula, loosen cake from sides of pan and invert
onto prepared towel. Carefully pull waxed paper off bottom of cake. Trim all
edges with serrated knife. Start from short edge, roll up cake, rolling
towel in with cake. Place wrapped roll seam-side down on wire rack until
cool about 30 minutes.

Meanwhile, in small mixing bowl, beat together cheese, 1/4 cup
confectioners' sugar, remaining 1/2 teaspoon vanilla and brandy flavoring
until light and fluffy. Stir in cherries.

Carefully unroll cake. Spoon remaining 1/2 cup chocolate syrup evenly over
cake. Spread with cheese mixture. Reroll. Place seam-side down on serving
platter. Cover and chill. Just before serving, dust with confectioners'
sugar, if desired. Cut into 3/4- to 1-inch slices to serve. Serves 10 to 12.
Source: American Egg Board, California Walnut Board and National Cherry

Note: If prepared in advance, cake may be frozen without filling. Wrap well
with aluminum foil or plastic wrap. To thaw, let wrapped cake stand at room
temperature 1 hour.

1 pound cake
2 c. heavy cream
3 oz. slivered almonds,
3 oz. hazel nuts, Brazil nuts
or whatever, chopped
5 oz. semi-sweet chocolate
bits, chopped
1 to 2 oz. Amaretto
1 to 2 oz. Frangelico or other
2 Tbsp. Amaretto
3/4 c. powdered sugar

Cut pound cake into 3/8-inch slabs lengthwise, then
diagonally into triangles. Line 1 1/2-quart mixing bowl with
cheesecloth. Use eye dropper and drip Amaretto and other
liqueur onto cake triangle, then line bowl with cake, liqueur
side down. Repeat the Amaretto and liqueur onto cake. When
placing cake in bowl, put crust side next to uncrusted side of
cake. This makes striped design when it is unmolded. When
entire bowl is lined, trim crust that is over top of bowl. In
another bowl, whip 2 cups heavy cream until stiff, then mix
nuts, powdered sugar, 2 tablespoons Amaretto and 3 ounces
chopped chocolate; stir to mix evenly, then divide in half.
Spoon half of cream mixture into cake mold, leaving rounded
cavity in middle.
Melt remaining 2 ounces chocolate and combine with other
cream mixture. Add to mold; cover bottom with remaining cake.
Sprinkle with liqueur and freeze until ready to serve. Serves
10 to 12.
Zuccotto (3)

 Serving Size  : 8    Preparation Time :0:00
 Categories    :
   Amount  Measure       Ingredient -- Preparation Method
 --------  ------------  --------------------------------
    2 1/2  ounces        almonds, blanched and peeled
    2 1/2  ounces        hazelnuts
    3      tablespoons   brandy
    3      tablespoons   amaretto
    3      tablespoons   maraschino or other sweet liqueur
    9      ounces        sponge cake -- cut in thin slices
    5      ounces        bitter chocolate
      3/4  pint          whipping cream
    3      ounces        powdered sugar -- sifted
                         for decoration:
    2      tablespoons   powdered sugar
    1      tablespoon    cocoa powder

Heat the oven to 400F.  Put the almonds and hazelnuts
on separate baking trays and toast in the oven for 5 minutes.
Then, with a rough towel, rub off as much of the hazelnut
skins as you can.  Roughly chop the almonds and hazelnuts
and set aside.

Mix the three liqueurs together.  Line the inside of a
1.5litre/2.5pint pudding basin with cling film and then
with cake slices, reserving some for the top.  Moisten
the cake with most of the liqueur mixture.

Melt 2oz of the chocolate in a small bowl over a pan
of simmering water; set aside.  Cut the remaining chocolate
into small pieces.

Whip the cream with the icing sugar until stiff.  Fold in the
almonds, hazelnuts and chocolate pieces.

Divide the cream mixture in half and spoon one portion into
the mould, spreading it evenly all over the cake lining the
bottom and sides.  Fold the melted chocolate into the
remaining cream mixture and spoon it into the mould to fill
the cavity.  Cover the pudding with the reserved cake and
moisten it with the rest of the liqueur.  Cover the mould
with cling film and refrigerate for at least 12 hours.
To unmould, place a piece of greaseproof paper and then a
piece of cardboard over the top of the pudding basin (or
just use a serving plate).  Turn the basin over to turn
out the pudding on to the paper and cardboard.  Place on a
board, remove the basin and peel off the cling film.

To decorate the zuccotto, cut out a circle of greaseproof
paper 37cm/15inch in diameter.  Fold in two to make a half
moon, then fold this in two to make a triangle.  Fold the
triangle in two again to make a thinner triangle.  Open out
and cut out each alternate section, without cutting the
paper through at the top.

Dust the whole dome with some sifted icing sugar.  Mix 2
Tbsp of sifted icing sugar with the cocoa.  Place the cut-out
circle of paper over the dome and sprinkle the cocoa and sugar
mixture in the cut-out sections.  Remove the paper carefully
without spoiling the pattern.  Transfer the zuccotto to a
flat round serving dish, using the cardboard for support.
Serve chilled.


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